Ubon Ratchathani: Side-Quest to Thailand’s Northeast
- reefaulkner
- Nov 4
- 4 min read
If you're looking for a Thailand destination that isn’t on the typical tourist trail, Ubon Ratchathani might surprise you. One of the four main cities in Thailand’s Isan region, the Ubon province has a population of over 1.8 million people and is best known for its famous Candle Festival in July, which marks the beginning of Buddhist Lent. But outside of festival season, the city is quiet, friendly, curious, and for the most part, completely free of tourists. That’s exactly what made it the perfect destination for our latest “side quest,” a week away from Bangkok to experience another part of Thailand we hadn't yet explored.
A week in Ubon Ratchathani
Ubon Ratchathani has one of the longest city names in Thailand, difficult enough for foreigners to remember or pronounce, which is probably why most Thai's shorten it to “Ubon.” What you won’t hear often, however, are "farangs" saying they’re heading there for a week, and that became the running curiosity everywhere we went. And just to be clear, it’s Ubon, not Udon. One letter, big difference.
Why Ubon?
We’ve been living in Bangkok for a year now, and before moving here we had already visited most of Thailand’s well-known destinations. Every couple of months, we like to plan what we call a side quest, a week somewhere new. When it was my turn to choose, I opened the map, looked northeast, and spotted a long name I wanted to try pronouncing: Ubon Ratchathani. That was enough reason for us.
And just like the Ubon locals asked us all week, many of our Bangkokrian friends asked the same question: “Why Ubon?” Because sometimes the best way to experience Thailand is to go where no one expects you to go.
Getting There
There are trains and buses from Bangkok to Ubon, but unless you enjoy overnight travel with not-quite-enough sleep, just fly. We took a one-hour flight from Suvarnabhumi Airport. Quick, easy, and the best way to start a relaxed trip.
Where We Stayed
We stayed at Centara Ubon, which connects directly to the only large shopping mall in Ubon. It’s very clearly a conference hotel and most guests were there for business events, making us the only foreigners staying for a full week. I was also the only female farang in all of Ubon, and at 180cm tall, that made us very easy to spot anywhere we went. 😜
The room was spacious with a super-sized king bed, bay window seating, a big TV, and daily servicing with fresh towels and bottled water. Breakfast at the hotel’s restaurant Butter and Bread was a full buffet mix of Thai and Western options, plus good coffee and juice. We also had dinner there twice. The pasta was delicious, the homemade bread was excellent, and they had a live acoustic band playing every night for two hours, so we always made sure to dine at that time. The hotel also has a good-sized pool with loungers and a poolside bar, perfect for lazy afternoons after the gym.
What We Did in Ubon
This wasn’t a sightseeing-mission trip, so our days took on a slow rhythm: gym in the morning, coffee and lunch at a local café, pool time in the afternoon, and dinner somewhere new in the evening. Getting around was simple, Grab always arrived within five minutes.
We didn’t rent a car, so we didn’t visit the glow-in-the-dark temple or Pha Taem National Park. Both are about an hour outside the city and are the main reasons most tourists stop in Ubon, but they required a rental car and we didn’t feel like making this trip that kind of itinerary. We also weren’t there for the Candle Festival, since we visited in October. And that was fine. This side quest wasn’t about ticking off attractions, it was about slowing down.
Cafés We Loved
If Ubon has one underrated strength, it’s cafés. So many unique and creative spots, most with prices that feel refreshingly un-Bangkok.
KOLé Bakery Bar The most impressive Halloween decorations we saw anywhere. They’re known for going all-out for both Halloween and Christmas. We had a Halloween-themed cake and it was delicious.
SongSarn Coffee & Home Roaster A great coffee stop near the old town area.
Kràthá kít chên Traditional Thai food. Our first lunch in Ubon and a good one.
Double U Coffee & Eatery This is where I had my first ever espresso-matcha combo, which instantly became my new favourite drink. Their Omurice with chicken basil and omelette was excellent.
Impression Sunrise Thai toast — simple and so good.
Yotei Sushi Surprisingly one of the best sushi meals we’ve had in a long time. Great quality and really well priced.
We also tried to visit Wab Cafe, but it was closed for renovations.
Ubon Must Sees
Thung Sri Mueang Park is a peaceful 30-minute walk with lots of squirrels. Wat Luang is beautiful and calming. Wat Phra That Nong Bua was our favourite. We arrived while monks were chanting and it was incredibly special. (Please dress respectfully when visiting temples.)
We didn’t visit the night markets because it rained most evenings (rainy season life). Old Town also has some street art to check out as you walk around.
The Feel of Ubon
Food was affordable, accommodation was reasonably priced, and everywhere we went, people were kind and smiling. A little bit of English was enough to communicate. It was a calm, curious, very real version of Thailand that felt worlds away from the tourist coastlines.
Would we return? Probably not. But we’re glad we went. It was exactly what a side quest should be, a reset from Bangkok, a reminder of how big Thailand really is, and a chance to appreciate small, ordinary, everyday life somewhere new.
If you ever find yourself in Ubon, use this as your starter guide, especially if you care about food, coffee, and gyms. Be sure to check out my 3 gym reviews here too!
Sometimes the best adventures aren’t the ones where you do everything. They’re the ones where you finally allow yourself to do nothing at all.
Much love,
Mi-Ree 💜
Enjoy life every day.
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